Climate change is 'brewing' trouble: 10 ways the taste of beer is changing

Beer has been a beloved drink for millennia, transcending cultures and continents, from the Neolithic era to modern-day pubs and bars. As one of the world’s most consumed alcoholic beverages, its distinctive taste is crafted through a delicate balance of three key ingredients: hops, yeast, and malted barley. However, as the planet warms and extreme weather events become more frequent, the flavour profile of beer is facing an existential challenge.

Researchers and brewers alike are raising concerns that climate change is not only threatening the ingredients needed for beer but could also alter the very taste that has been cherished for centuries. Here’s a look at how climate change is brewing up a new world for beer drinkers and how the flavour profile of the world's favourite drink is shifting.

1. Rising Temperatures Are Disrupting Hop Growth

Hops, particularly the noble hop varieties prized for their distinctive bitterness, are central to the flavour of many popular beer styles, especially light lagers. But the heat is becoming too much for these crops. Research by Mirek Trnka at the Global Change Research Institute Academy of Sciences in the Czech Republic has shown that climate change is affecting the timing and success of hop growing. The start of the growing season has moved forward by 13 days since 1970, and ripening is happening 20 days earlier. As temperatures rise, yields of these prized hops are expected to decline significantly by 2050.

2. Reduced Alpha Acid Levels

Alpha acids in hops are the chemical compounds responsible for beer’s signature bitter taste. However, studies indicate that climate change is leading to lower alpha acid content in hops, which means that the bitter flavour that characterizes many beers, including IPAs, may become less pronounced. Trnka’s study predicts a 31% decrease in alpha acid levels by 2050, threatening the balance of flavours that beer lovers expect.

3. More Frequent Droughts Harm Hop Production

Droughts have become more frequent and severe as part of the broader climate crisis. These water shortages are threatening crop yields, including hops. While some brewers can mitigate these effects with irrigation, extremely high temperatures (up to 46°C or 116°F) can stop plant growth altogether. This situation is pushing brewers to search for alternative crops or methods to ensure a stable supply of hops.

4. Changing Flavour of Barley

Along with hops, barley is a key ingredient in beer production. Rising temperatures, coupled with altered rainfall patterns, are expected to lower barley yields. This could affect the malt profile of beers, particularly those that rely on high-quality barley. Although the malt's sweet, rich flavour is less sensitive to environmental changes than hops, climate-induced barley shortages could still lead to a significant shift in taste.

5. Shifting Growing Seasons

The growing season for barley and hops has shifted due to changing temperatures, which could impact not just crop yields but also the overall taste of beer. As the growing cycles of these ingredients move earlier in the year, brewers may find it difficult to maintain consistency in taste, resulting in slight but noticeable changes in beer flavour from batch to batch.

6. New Hop Varieties May Change Beer Profiles

To cope with climate-induced challenges, hop breeders are working to create new hop varieties that can withstand higher temperatures and more frequent droughts. While some new varieties have shown promise, especially in terms of heat resistance and drought tolerance, they may have different flavour profiles. The traditional bitterness and aromatic qualities of classic hops may be replaced with new, unexpected characteristics that could alter the taste of beer.

7. Increased Water Scarcity Drives Costs Up

In many regions, water scarcity is becoming a significant issue for hop farmers. In North America, where irrigation is common, the costs associated with ensuring sufficient water supply to hops are rising. As water resources dwindle, the price of hops could soar, leading to higher beer prices and potential changes in beer styles to accommodate more cost-effective ingredients.

8. Brewers Turning to Regenerative Agriculture

To mitigate climate effects, some brewers are incorporating regenerative agriculture practices. Techniques like cover cropping, which improves soil health and reduces erosion, and the use of biochar, a material that enhances water retention, are becoming more common in hop farming. These practices help preserve the environment but might also introduce subtle changes in the taste of the hops themselves.

9. Consumers Embrace "Fresh Hop Beers"

In response to the changing climate and its effects on hops, some brewers have started producing "fresh hop beers," which showcase the unique qualities of that particular year’s harvest. These beers are made with freshly harvested hops, offering a chance to celebrate the distinctiveness of the current crop, even if it may taste different from previous years due to the changing growing conditions.

10. Craft Beer Movement Leans Into Experimentation

The craft beer industry, especially in the United States, has long been driven by experimentation and diversity in flavours. Many craft brewers use a blend of multiple hop varieties, allowing them to adjust recipes to accommodate changes in hop yields or quality. This trend of layering flavours is helping to ensure that even as hops change, the final product remains enjoyable, even if the taste is somewhat different from the classic beers people are used to.

Can Beer Survive Climate Change?

Despite the challenges posed by climate change, the beer industry is not throwing in the towel. Innovations in breeding new hop varieties, more efficient farming practices, and even altering brewing recipes are all contributing to the ongoing evolution of beer. However, it's clear that the beer of the future may look—and taste—quite different from what we’ve come to know and love.